If you’ve scrolled through TikTok or Instagram lately, you’ve definitely seen them. Those short, chunky, curly-ended braids that frame the face perfectly and just scream “cool girl energy.”
We’re talking about Coi Leray braids.
Named after the rapper Coi Leray, who popularized this specific look, this hairstyle has taken over salons and feeds everywhere. I remember the first time I tried to recreate this style; I underestimated how important the parting was and ended up with a look that was more “messy bun” than “chart-topping artist.” Lesson learned.
Whether you’re looking to book a salon appointment or brave the DIY route in front of your bathroom mirror, here is everything you need to know about rocking this trending protective style.
What Are Coi Leray Braids?
Let’s break it down. At their core, Coi Leray braids are a variation of jumbo knotless braids. But they have distinct features that set them apart from your standard box braids.
First, the length. While we’re used to seeing braids that flow down to the waist or even the knees, Coi Leray braids are typically shorter—usually stopping at shoulder or chest length.
Second, the ends. This is the signature. Instead of braiding all the way down to the very tip and dipping them in hot water to seal them straight, these braids are left loose and curly at the ends. It gives the style a playful, unfinished-yet-polished vibe.
Third, the volume. They are chunky. You aren’t sitting in the chair for 8 hours getting micro braids. Because the sections are large, you end up with fewer individual braids on your head, which means less tension and a much faster installation time.
Why Are They So Popular?
Honestly? We are all tired of sitting in a stylist’s chair for an entire Saturday.
One of the biggest draws of this hairstyle is the time factor. Because the parts are jumbo, a skilled braider can knock this style out in 2 to 3 hours. Compare that to the 6 to 8 hours needed for small knotless braids, and you can see why everyone is jumping on this trend.
They are also incredibly lightweight. Heavy braids can wreak havoc on your edges and cause tension headaches. Since Coi Leray braids use less hair and stop at a shorter length, your neck gets a break.
Who Should Try This Style?
The short answer: Everyone.
The long answer is that this style is particularly great if you have fine hair or a sensitive scalp. The knotless technique—where hair is fed into the braid gradually rather than anchored with a tight knot at the root—greatly reduces tension.
It’s also a fantastic transitional style. If you are growing out a relaxer or just taking a break from heat styling, this protective style keeps your ends tucked away (mostly) and your roots stress-free.
However, if you have very short hair (under 3-4 inches), you might struggle. The braider needs enough natural hair to grip and feed the extensions into. If your hair is too short, the heavy sections might slip out.
How to Do Coi Leray Braids: A Step-by-Step Guide
If you are attempting this yourself, you need to prep. I cannot stress this enough—a good style starts with a clean canvas.
What You’ll Need
- Pre-stretched braiding hair: You don’t need many packs. 2 to 3 packs are usually enough since you aren’t doing many braids.
- Rat-tail comb: For those crisp, clean parts.
- Shine jam or edge control: To slick down the roots and keep the sections neat.
- Mousse: To set the style at the end.
- Perm rods or flexi rods: To curl the ends.
- Boiling water: To set the curls.
Step 1: Wash and Blow Dry
Start with freshly washed, deep-conditioned hair. Blow it out so it’s stretched. This makes parting easier and helps your natural hair blend seamlessly with the extensions. If you want to avoid heat, you can stretch your hair using African threading or banding the night before.
Step 2: Sectioning
This is the most critical part. Coi Leray braids are defined by those large, geometric parts. You want to map out your head. Usually, this style consists of large square or triangular parts. Make sure your lines are sharp—use your shine jam on the parts to get them super sleek.
Step 3: The Install
Start with the knotless method. Grab a section of your natural hair and split it into three. Start braiding, and after a few turns, feed in small pieces of the braiding hair.
Don’t add too much hair at once or it will look bulky at the root. You want it flat.
Braid down until you reach the point where you want the curl to start. Since these are short braids, you’ll likely stop braiding just past your shoulder.
Step 4: Curling the Ends
Once you’ve braided down to your desired length, wrap the loose end of the hair around a perm rod or flexi rod. Do this for every single braid.
Step 5: The Dip
Dip the rods in boiling hot water for about 10-15 seconds. Be extremely careful not to burn yourself or dip the braids too high up. Towel dry them carefully, then unwind the rods. You should have bouncy, perfect curls.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
Apply a generous amount of mousse over the braids to lay down any flyaways. Tie your head down with a silk scarf for at least 15 minutes to let everything set.
Maintaining Your Braids
Okay, you’ve got the look. Now, how do you keep it looking fresh for more than a week?
Because these braids are jumbo, they don’t last as long as micro braids. The larger the section, the faster the roots tend to get frizzy. Typically, you can expect Coi Leray braids to look good for about 4 to 6 weeks.
Nighttime Routine is Non-Negotiable
You must wrap your hair at night. Use a large silk or satin bonnet. Because the ends are curly, they can tangle easily if you sleep rough on cotton pillowcases. I like to put my braids in a loose pineapple (high ponytail) before putting my bonnet on to preserve the curls.
Refreshing the Curls
After a week or two, the ends might start looking a little matted. Don’t panic. You can refresh them easily. Apply a little bit of leave-in conditioner or mousse to the ends and finger coil them. If they are really far gone, you can re-dip them in hot water.
Scalp Care
Keep your scalp clean. Use a light oil like jojoba or almond oil to keep the skin hydrated, but don’t overdo it or you’ll cause buildup. If your scalp gets itchy, use a witch hazel spray on a cotton pad to gently cleanse the parts between the braids.
Styling Variations to Try
While the classic Coi Leray look is shoulder-length jet black, don’t feel boxed in.
- Add Color: Peekaboo highlights or ombre ends look amazing with this chunky style.
- Bob Length: Go even shorter for a chin-length bob that frames the face beautifully.
- Accessories: Add beads or gold cuffs to a few braids for extra personality.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many packs of hair do I need for Coi Leray braids?
You typically need fewer packs than standard box braids. usually, 3 to 4 packs of pre-stretched hair are sufficient, depending on how thick you want them.
Do Coi Leray braids damage your hair?
Generally, no. Because they are knotless, there is less tension on the follicle. However, because the sections are heavy, you need to make sure your sections are large enough to support the weight of the added hair. If you put a heavy jumbo braid on a tiny section of natural hair, you risk breakage.
How much does this style cost?
This varies wildly by location and stylist, but generally, because it takes less time, it can be slightly cheaper than small knotless braids. Expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $200.
Can I wash my hair while it’s in these braids?
You can, but I wouldn’t recommend a full vigorous scrub like you do with your natural hair. It will cause the roots to frizz up instantly. If you must wash, focus on the scalp and be gentle. Use a dry shampoo for a safer refresh.
How long does it take to install?
This is the best part—usually only 2 to 3 hours!
Final Thoughts
Coi Leray braids aren’t just a fleeting trend; they are a practical, stylish, and time-saving option for anyone looking for a protective style. They offer the glam of braids without the headache of an 8-hour salon day.
Whether you keep it classic or remix it with colors and beads, the key is the confidence you wear them with. So grab your rat-tail comb, pick your favorite movie to watch while you braid, and give your hair the break it deserves.
